Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La: Route, Permits, Stops

# Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La: Route, Permits, Stops

Nubra is the valley north of Leh where the Shyok and Nubra rivers meet, and it feels like a different country from the Indus valley: wider, sandier, greener in patches, and much quieter. The standard way in is over Khardung La, a high pass just outside Leh. This guide covers the route, what to arrange before you go, the main stops from Hunder to Turtuk, and how to avoid altitude trouble.

Route at a glance

The numbers below come from several guides that measure to different endpoints, so treat them as approximate.

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Leh to Hunder usually takes 5-7 hours with stops. The road is paved for most of its length but is narrow, with single-lane sections, slush near the top in cold weather, and occasional washouts. Plan a full day, and do not set out late.

Before you go: permits and rules

Nubra, Khardung La, Pangong and Tso Moriri are border-area destinations, and non-local visitors have long needed a permit for them. The rules have changed over the years and sources currently disagree on details for Indian tourists. What can be said safely:

Tourists pay Ladakh's **environment-related fees online** through the Union Territory portal (lahdclehpermit.in). Keep the receipt or permit printed and also on your phone.

Some travellers report that a permit is still required for Nubra and, in particular, for **Turtuk**, which may need to be listed separately. Check this before you leave Leh, as people have been turned back at checkposts.

Physical copies are checked at the **South Pullu** and **North Pullu** checkpoints, so carry several printouts and a government ID.

**Foreign nationals** need a Protected Area Permit, which in practice is arranged through a registered travel agent in Leh.

A travel agent in Leh, or your hotel, can confirm the current position in a few minutes. Do this on day one, not the morning of departure.

Acclimatisation first

Leh is about 3,500 m. Khardung La is around 5,359 m, a figure that is sometimes inflated to 5,600 m or more on signboards. Nubra's valley floor is much lower (roughly 3,000 m), which makes the valley comfortable for sleeping once you are past the pass.

Spend **at least two nights in Leh** before crossing. Do light sightseeing only on day two.

Limit your stop at the pass to a short photo break. Guidance for similar passes, such as Chang La, is to stay no more than 20-25 minutes at the top.

Drink water, avoid alcohol on arrival, and descend if you develop severe headache, vomiting or breathlessness at rest.

Diamox is sold over the counter, but speak to a doctor first, especially if you are allergic to sulfa drugs.

Day-by-day plan

Day 1 and 2: Leh. Rest and acclimatise. Sort permits, cash and warm clothing.

Day 3: Leh to Hunder (about 125 km). Leave early. After Khardung La the road descends through Khardung village and Khalsar, where it forks: one branch goes toward Diskit and Turtuk, another toward Panamik and Sumur. Stop in Diskit for the monastery, which is about 350 years old and has a 32 m Maitreya statue overlooking the valley. Continue to Hunder for the evening.

Day 4: Hunder dunes and Turtuk. The dunes between Hunder and Diskit are a strip of sand roughly 7 km long, where visitors ride Bactrian (two-humped) camels, an echo of the old Silk Route. Early morning is quieter. Turtuk is a full-day round trip from Hunder or Diskit, and many people prefer to stay there overnight. It is a village of Balti people, was opened to tourists only in 2010, and is among the last places visitors can go before the Line of Control. Expect narrow lanes, apricot orchards and homestays.

Day 5: Return to Leh. You can retrace the Khardung La road, or leave the valley by another route such as Wari La, which needs a driver who knows it. Allow a full day either way.

Panamik and beyond

Panamik, further up the valley, is known for its hot springs. Tourists cannot go beyond Panamik, and the Siachen Glacier area is closed to civilians. Plan accordingly if you only have a few days.

Best season

Late May to September is the usual window, with the highest chance of clear roads and open guesthouses. September brings apricot harvest. As of late October, nights in Nubra are cold, snow can fall at the pass, and many seasonal camps and guesthouses close, so confirm that your stays are open before travelling. Winter temperatures in the valley can fall to about -40 C in the worst spells, though the Khardung La road has no permanent winter closure.

Money, fuel and connectivity

**Fuel:** fill the tank in Leh, and carry a buffer if you plan to go to Turtuk. Do not assume you will find fuel at every village.

**Cash:** withdraw in Leh and carry enough for the whole trip; ATMs and digital payments can be unreliable in remote villages.

**Mobile:** prepaid SIMs from outside Ladakh generally do not work; postpaid connections do. Coverage is reasonable around Diskit and Hunder and thin beyond, with only BSNL reported in Turtuk.

Practical tips

1. Start from Leh by about 7-8 am to clear the pass before afternoon weather and traffic.

2. Hire a driver who knows the route; convoy delays and landslides are common.

3. Carry warm layers, sunscreen, sunglasses and a litre or two of water.

4. Respect the camels and the villagers; Turtuk is a living village, not a stage set.

5. Photography near checkposts and military installations is restricted; follow signs and ask if unsure.

FAQ

Is Khardung La the highest motorable road in the world? No. It is high and impressive, but the claim is disputed and often corrected in newer sources.

How many days do I need? Three days in Nubra after two in Leh is comfortable; a rushed two-night trip is possible but tiring.

Is Nubra warmer than Leh? Slightly, because it is lower, but nights are still cold outside summer.

Can I do Nubra and Pangong together? Yes, via Tangtse or Wari La, but it needs extra days and a good vehicle.

If you want the permits, stays and a suitable driver lined up for the Nubra loop, HimachalWale can help plan it.