Spiti Valley

Spiti means 'the middle land' between India and Tibet. It is a cold desert at 3,000 to 4,500 m in north-eastern Himachal Pradesh. It runs along the Spiti river and its side valleys, such as Pin and Lingti. Tibetan Buddhism shapes daily life here. The highlights are monasteries such as Key, Dhankar and Tabo, and villages like Langza, Komic, Hikkim and Kibber. You can also see fossil-rich hillsides and the turquoise Chandratal lake. Kaza is the main base, with fuel, ATMs, homestays and the valley's only real market. You can enter Spiti from Shimla via Kinnaur, open most of the year though landslide-prone. Or you can come from Manali over Rohtang and Kunzum La, usually open from about June to October. Altitude sickness is a real risk. Plan a gradual climb with an acclimatisation night at Kalpa or Nako, and keep spare days for road delays. Winter is very cold but suits snow leopard seekers. Carry cash and fill fuel at Kaza.