Pangong Tso, Hanle and Tso Moriri: Eastern Ladakh Circuit

# Pangong Tso, Hanle and Tso Moriri: Eastern Ladakh Circuit

Eastern Ladakh is the high, open plateau of Changthang, where the land is wide, the lakes sit above 4,000 m and villages are few and far apart. Pangong Tso, Hanle and Tso Moriri are often sold as separate day trips from Leh, but they can also be linked into one loop that avoids doubling back. This guide explains the circuit, the altitude load, the permits and what to book ahead.

The circuit in outline

A typical loop runs Leh - Pangong Tso - Hanle - Tso Moriri - Leh over four to five nights. Distances below come from guides that differ by route and endpoint, so treat them as approximate.

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None of these are quick drives. Roads are mostly paved but patchy, with gravel, nalas (stream crossings) and military traffic. A full day per leg is realistic.

Pangong Tso

Pangong is a long, narrow brackish lake at about 4,300 m. It is roughly 134 km long and only a few kilometres wide at most; about two-thirds of it lies in China and the Line of Actual Control runs through it. The Indian side is reached over Chang La (about 5,360 m), via Karu on the Leh-Manali highway, then down through Durbuk and Tangtse. The road near the pass can be slushy and steep, and guides advise keeping any stop at the top to 20-25 minutes.

Stay options are concentrated around Spangmik, with Lukung and Man further along, and Tangtse as a lower base. Boating is not allowed on the Indian side. The colour changes through the day and is best before the afternoon winds.

Hanle and the dark sky

Hanle lies near the Chinese border in the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary. It is known for the Indian Astronomical Observatory, one of the highest in the world at around 4,500 m, and for the Hanle Dark Sky Reserve, notified by the Ladakh administration in late 2022. Skies here are among the darkest in India, so clear, moonless nights are the draw.

Hanle Monastery, a Drukpa Kagyu monastery built in the 17th century under King Sengge Namgyal, is the main cultural stop. Most visitors stay in simple homestays or camps, so expect basic facilities and pack for cold nights even in summer. The observatory itself is not a normal tourist attraction and access is controlled; ask locally what visitors can see.

Tso Moriri and Korzok

Tso Moriri sits at about 4,522 m, is around 26 km long, and is a Ramsar-listed wetland. The only year-round settlement, Korzok, has a monastery of roughly 400 years. Birdwatchers look for bar-headed geese and, with luck, black-necked cranes, while kiang (Tibetan wild ass) graze nearby. Keep your vehicle off fragile ground, as unregulated safari driving has been blamed for stress on the kiang. Camping at the lake has reportedly been restricted, so book a homestay or camp inside Korzok.

If you prefer a gentler stretch, add Tso Kar (a high-altitude lake with accommodation at Thukje) on the route from Leh via Upshi.

Permits and rules

Pangong, Hanle and Tso Moriri are in border or protected zones.

All visitors pay the Ladakh environment fees online (lahdclehpermit.in). Some sources say Indians now need only the fee receipt, while others still describe a permit; check the portal or ask your Leh hotel before you set off.

**Foreign nationals** need a Protected Area Permit via a registered agent, and several routes in the east, including Hanle, may not be open to them. Confirm with an agent.

Carry printed copies and ID. Checkposts keep copies.

Acclimatisation: the real constraint

Leh is about 3,500 m. On this circuit you will sleep at around 4,200-4,500 m on several nights. A common advice is to spend two or three nights in Leh first, and never go straight from Manali by road to these lakes. Plan the loop in the order of the table, so each night is not dramatically higher than the last, and keep a rest day if anyone has headaches.

Drink water steadily and avoid alcohol.

Diamox is sold over the counter, but talk to a doctor first, particularly with a sulfa allergy.

Descend if symptoms worsen. Leh has a hospital, but between stops help can be hours away.

Best season

The practical window is roughly June to mid-September, when passes are clear and camps are open. Early summer can bring snow at Chang La, and snowmelt or flash floods can damage roads later in the season, so check conditions each morning. As of late October, nights at these altitudes are well below freezing, many camps and homestays are closing for winter, and snow can close high roads. If you are reading this in autumn, treat it as planning for next season.

Fuel, cash and connectivity

**Fuel:** fill up in Leh and carry spare fuel for the Hanle and Moriri legs. Fuel stops are few on the plateau.

**Cash:** carry enough for homestays and meals. ATMs are scarce away from Leh.

**Mobile:** prepaid SIMs from outside Ladakh do not work; postpaid does where there is signal. Coverage is patchy at Pangong and weak at Hanle and Tso Moriri. Tell someone your plan before you leave Leh.

Practical tips

1. Hire a local driver who knows the plateau; it is not a route for first-time self-driving.

2. Book stays at Spangmik, Hanle and Korzok ahead, as supply is small.

3. Cross streams early in the day, when meltwater is lowest.

4. Pack a down jacket, sleeping-bag liner, torch and lip balm; nights are cold.

5. Give military convoys room and avoid photographing installations.

FAQ

How many days do I need? Five days from Leh is a comfortable minimum for the full loop. A Pangong overnight alone needs two days.

Is Hanle worth the extra days? Yes if the night sky matters to you, but the road is long and the stay basic.

Can I see Pangong and Nubra on the same trip? Yes, via Wari La or Tangtse, with extra days.

Can children and older travellers do this? It is demanding at altitude; consult a doctor and keep a flexible plan.

If you want this circuit paced sensibly, with acclimatisation days and stays booked, HimachalWale can help plan it.