The Journal
Field guides, traveller diaries, and slow-living notes — written by the people who actually live in these mountains.

Culture·8 min read
When the Dalai Lama crossed the Himalayas in 1959, he was given a small British-era hill station above Dharamsala. Today, McLeod Ganj is the capital of Tibetan exile — a place where monks debate philosophy on the same street where backpackers eat banana pancakes.

Culture·7 min read
Perched at 2,652 metres in the Malana Nala of Kullu, this village has its own parliament, its own legal system, and its own god. Touch nothing. You are an outsider here. They have a word for it.

Culture·8 min read
At -30°C, the Spiti Valley shuts down. Roads close. Rivers freeze solid. And 12,000 people stay behind. Here is what winter really looks like in the highest inhabited valley in India.